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Old April 11th   #1
Tanro
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Rebuilding my KA24DE
 

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Tanro's Unicorn, 93 Talon TSi AWD (Auto)

Decided to dub this car The Unicorn, because its fairly rare (1g Auto AWD No ABS, Appears to have rear LSD), and its white, and its got just one hood pin.

Ryan and I traded cars even though I had my heart set on getting that M3, very little local interest in a 1g AWD Automatic DSM. Plus this thing despite being perfectly drivable needs a lot of work.

Current plans include addressing the cooling system (thermostat, radiator hoses, cooling fans), Some Reliablity fixes (few small oil leaks, basic tuneup, t-belt), and then Suspension/Cosmetic work. It needs the a sideskirt piece, and the paint is beyond fixing (clear peal). So it looks like its time to get my Hands dirty.

Thankfully Ryan Rescued this car from what to had to have been a tweaker. Because the mods it had when Ryan go ahold of it where just plain dumb. He has 50+ hour a week job and was daily driving this car. My Sun-Tues is usually pretty slow, and I have the RX7 as a backup. So I can address the issues that need it.

Pics :

Tweaker Previous Owner Era engine bay shots



I am telling you, that thing recirculating the BOV looks like a piece to an Aquarium pump. The MBC Was teed into the BOV, and the boost gauge was improperly hooked up. The throttle body emissions vacuum ports where capped, but some of the emission were hooked up elsewhere, and it had 2 uncapped, unconnected vacuum lines.

When I got it:


I still have a few more things to do while I wait on parts, but I've allready installed the Wideband and fixed some the general WTFs in the engine bay. GM MAF Translator is going as soon as I cut some new gaskets for the throttle body.

Exterior Shots. Notice the 1 hood pin.







Apparently Aftermarket Electric Sunroof

Last edited by Tanro; April 11th at 12:17 AM.
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Old April 11th   #2
Samir
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Ouch! That's definitely in rough shape. I just looked at the rear exhaust and it's scary.
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Old April 11th   #3
Tanro
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Its running rich, Common problem on 1gs with the upswept tips. It doesn't run RX-7 "I can make blue flames shoot out my exhaust when I shift at 8k" rich. But it will dirty up the rear bumper with a couple Wide open throttle pulls.

I hope to get this issue cleared up soon enough. I am gonna cut some gaskets tomorrow and install the MAF-T and start dialing it.
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Old April 11th   #4
gorkoracing
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Looks like a fun project car. I was tempted when I saw this for sale as well. Noticed the 1 hood pin in the for sale thread and had to chuckle.
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Old April 11th   #5
Tanro
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The hood has a nice dent in it, so I will be looking for a hood soon. The single hood pin made me chuckle as well.

Last edited by Tanro; April 11th at 10:46 AM.
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Old April 12th   #6
highspeed
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Just looked at your tune on DSMLink in Ryan's Car........WTF?
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Old April 12th   #7
Tanro
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I just ran the MAFComp adjust tool. Before I touched it I was seeing combinedFT of 30+%. Everything else should be zeroed out for stock injectors and a 2.0 engine aside from the boost gauge being set as a voltage gauge, and the TPS being adjusted.

Last edited by Tanro; April 12th at 07:41 PM.
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Old April 17th   #8
sohcanddohc
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Not sure if there are any parts you need but I seen a 1G white eclipse at Yearwoods in Cullman today.
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Old April 17th   #9
Tanro
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Awesome thanks man. Gonna go check it out when I get back from drill. I know Billy's out on the other side of 278 had a bunch of 1gs, but the last time I was there they had crushed a lot of them. I need some better looking seats, and a 92-94 hood, few other odds and ends. All ways looking for good 14b turbos off 1gs.
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Old April 17th   #10
Tanro
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So some progress. I loomed up the MAF-T. Couldn't figure out how to depin the big connector so I think I may just put corrugated loom on there for now because the blue flexbraid is way to big and looks off.


Then I took it apart to swap the throttle body with a broken Idle Switch ear for my rebuilt 1g Throttle body. (New shaft seals, polished plate and bore, new BISS, FIAV Blockoff).

Here is the old throttle body.

And the Comparison.

STM EGR Blockoff I've had laying around for quite some time.

Nearly Back together.

Yay I can see my AFRs now! Wide band o2 Installed.

I also installed a cheapo lawnmower fuel filter inline with the vacuum tube coming off the passenger side of the valve cover (old school oil catch method). No pic of this.

Put on my make shift o2 heatshield. Would like to get and OEM one. If anyone has OEM Heatshields you want to get rid of, PM me.

And replaced and correctly routed the vacuum lines for the Boost Controller, and BOV (Boost controller was teed into the BOV)

Quite a bit of progress in the past few days. I've also ordered camshaft seals, a valvecover gasket (this one is leaking like a MFer), oil Cap gasket, spark plugs, 190 LPH, Rewire kit, slim fans, and some Couplers/T-bolt Clamps to install the 3" MAF. After that stuff this car should be DD Ready.

Fast forward a few days and...
New Felpro Valvecover gasket, Camshaft Seals, and Thermostat gasket are on. I had to cut a thermostat housing gasket but it should seal fine.

My T-Cover had 3 bolts holding it on. It is a bit broken. So I will be needing a new one at some point, I think I can get it secured just need to grab some more bolts, Only 2 of the bolt holes were broken, so I dunno why the person that did the timing belt last thought 4 bolts in the whole thing was good enough.

190 LPH Installed


Slim Fans, Couplers, and T-Belt here today.

GM MAF Mounted up on the 2g elbow and PR UICP

Dang that was a tight fit. I had to grind down the Lips on the maf, and the force the #$%# out of the couplers to get them on. Clamps are nice and tight though, hopefully I won't get any blowoffs.

Also got the slim fans mounted up and moved onto the wiring. After that I installed the new tensioner, pulleys, and timing belt + balance shaft belt. Hopefully I can button up everything tomorrow, and crank it up. Then get ready to install the MAF-T plus gm 3" maf.

Last edited by Tanro; April 17th at 08:50 PM.
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Old April 17th   #11
sohcanddohc
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Wouldn't count on the seats, hood maybe. I don't think there was a door on the drivers side and it looks like it has been there a while.
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Old April 17th   #12
Samir
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Wow, lots of progress. I have to ask though, why not Mitsu parts versus aftermarket?
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Last edited by Samir; April 17th at 09:22 PM.
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Old April 17th   #13
Tanro
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On what?

Gates T-belts > All Others. The tensioner is an OEM, but the belt and pulleys are Gates. I prefer them to OEM, and for 1/3rd the price or less you can't go wrong.

Felpro also make superior Gaskets. Walbro fuel pumps (although some people have bad experiences) are usually pretty good. If this one kicks it I will probably get a dw or denso supra pump.

If that driver's door is still there I will probably get that.

Last edited by Tanro; April 17th at 10:01 PM.
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Old April 17th   #14
Samir
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If they're just stock replacements, I've always found the Japanese parts from the dealership are superior to any other companies, especially on little things like the valve cover gaskets. I looked at the Mexican made ones made by most aftermarket companies and they just didn't have the same attention to detail that the Japanese ones did.
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Old April 17th   #15
Tanro
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Fel-pro aren't cheap junk like most of the companies out there. Never had issue with fitment or quality of them. Its the only gasket brand I would buy besides Cometic or OEM.
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Old April 17th   #16
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I've heard them being called 'fail-pro' on the Altima forums for years, so I dunno. I've never had to replace a head gasket.

I just learned all this from the other side with parts distribution. Everyone buys what they buy for basically half. And it does this way all the way back to the manufacturer. So when Denso is putting $3 in one alternator and $5 in the one for Nissan, the Nissan one costs more. And I've had the opportunity to compare even OEM parts by the same manufacturers that make them for the brands. There still is a difference. Hence why I spent almost triple on a Honda radiator versus what I had in inventory for the same application.

I know sometimes there's a defect in the parts from the factory that aftermarket corrects, but I haven't seen this happen on any Japanese parts I've had for three brands--Nissan, Honda, and Mitsubishi.

Just curious more than anything else.
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Old April 17th   #17
Tanro
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I've heard a lot of people call them fail-pro. But that is all down to user error. Pretty sure the gasket on the car was a felpro. but there was 3 layers of RTV on the entire mounting surface of the gasket.

Gray-black-gray. Even the OEM Tells you to only put it in a few spots at the corners of the camshaft end caps where they meet the head sealing surface. No reason it should have ever seen 95% of the surface, including the spark plug hole gaskets.

The cheap mexican ones are made of a harder rubber that doesn't fit very well. I replaced the OEM gasket on my SC-1 with a felpro and it lasted longer than the bottom end did.

The Fel-Pro MLS headgasket is actually one of the most expensive ones you can get for this engine. I do believe its even more expensive than the OEM MLS, and twice the price of a Cometic MLS. You still need to have the head and block surfaced extremely well to use it, same for any MLS.

Last edited by Tanro; April 17th at 11:01 PM.
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Old April 17th   #18
Samir
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Yeah, I forgot about the user error part, and you're dead-on about that. RTV everywhere, no one following the factory service specs, etc. I bet if they did it right it would last about the same.

I didn't realize the MLS head gasket wasn't just a part upgrade. Learned something new. The tolerances on proper machining are what scare me. After seeing the work that some of the machine shops around here turn out, I'd have to ship my stuff out of state.
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Old April 17th   #19
Tanro
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Yeah, that is the main reason I've never used one. I don't trust any of the Machine shops I know of to get the head and block surface right. You make decent power with a composite and ARP Headstuds.

Some of the Shadetree mechanics, and back yarder diyers need to learn that you can't expect miracles from chemicals and additives. RTV is not quick way to get around cleaning a gasket surface. For a good gasket seal you should not be able to see, or feel anything but bare, smooth metal.

Besides, sanding a gasket surfaced down one is quicker than properly applying RTV. If the surface is clean enough you shouldn't much RTV on anything, and it will be easier to clean should you need to replace the gasket again at some-point.

Last edited by Tanro; April 17th at 11:30 PM.
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Old April 18th   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samir View Post
The tolerances on proper machining are what scare me. After seeing the work that some of the machine shops around here turn out, I'd have to ship my stuff out of state.
I've heard some pretty scary stories of some surface decking methods around the south, like guys putting a head on a chain, tying it to the back of a trailer hitch on a truck, loading the head with sandbags, and dragging it across the road. I've also heard of people using a belt sander to deck instead of just using them to clean the surface. Scary stuff.
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